4th August
After a failed attempt to send a dry shipper (a container
infused with liquid nitrogen for holding our blood samples) to the team in
Eureka (it spent two weeks in Quebec) and various calls to other
shipping agents, we decided the only sure option for getting one up there was to
travel with it. So Stu set off on Sunday. No problems all the way to Iqaluit,
which was basking in sun, ice-free and 17 degrees C. However, the weather in
Resolute Bay had been pretty awful over the last couple of weeks, only two
flights got in over a 9-day period.
So as they called our flight it was made clear that there was a less
than 50% chance of getting in.
On landing at Arctic Bay to refuel it became
clear that the chance of getting in was even slimmer and after an hour at the
airstrip it was cancelled with the promise of a very early flight the following
morning. We stayed at the Tangmaarvik Inn, not particularly salubrious, but
great views out over the bay, flat calm, total reflection (see pic) and blue
fulmars gliding and dipping sending ripples out to meet the iceflows. Dinner at
$60 was welcome, but bloody awful.
View from my hotel room in Arctic Bay |
Arctic Bay also has some resonance with the
project as we have been working with Naomi Hart (an Exeter artist) who last
year sent brent goose postcards all over the world for people to post them back
to her for an installation on bird migration (see http://www.allaboutmigration.com/).
Anyway the link comes from a postcard sent to her by a school boy from this
very village (see pic).
5th August
Up at 4am local time, at the airstrip by 5 boarded the plane
and arrived in Resolute in time for breakfast. The weather had cleared
dramatically and we had the makings of a beautiful day. While I was heading
north the team from Eureka was heading south and of course the poor weather
meant that they had got stuck too (Ian’s post will fill in the gaps). But they
arrived mid-morning and because of the weather window, Tom, Ian and Kerry had
just enough time for lunch before we were loading the helicopter to go and look
for geese. John Innes (who we have worked with much of the season) was our
pilot and we set out just after lunch, heading northwest across Cornwallis
Island (yet another place that looks like the surface of Mars) toward McDougall
Sound and Tern Island. The weather got clearer as we hit the sea, now petrol
blue flecked with white ice. A quick circuit of tern Island revealed lots of
king eiders, Arctic terns and many young Sabine’s gulls, but no geese. We then
turned northeast heading for the coast of Devon island and a fuel cache. We saw
a few small flocks of Brent, on some of the outlying islands but all were
flying and so no chance of any catches. After refuelling at Stewart Point on
the south east coast of the Grinnell Peninsula, we had yet another spectacular
flight, along seabird cliffs and iced in fjords. Lots of moulting eiders and
long-tailed ducks, more Sabine’s gulls and an ivory gull, but very few geese
and again those we did see were already flying. Nice to see lots of walruses
out and the ice (see pic) and some very big groups (50+) packed onto some of
the beaches.
We rounded Cape Briggs and headed east into the Belcher
Channel. This was an area that Kendrew had seen lots of families in 2005,
however it was the same story and eventually we hit a fog bank. John tried very
hard to get around it including flying up a narrow riverbed at about 20ft with
about 100m visibility. We decided to try the east coast of Bathurst Island
instead. The Penny Strait was flat calm and we saw several female narwhal, one
of which was sleeping and a polar bear mum and cub (see the two white dots near the top of the pic below) on an iceflow
about 10miles from land.
6th August
Snow first thing, was not a great sign for us and sure
enough when we spoke to Glenn (the logistics controller at Polar Shelf) it was
clear that we were not going to get flying. Freezing rain is bad for
helicopters. So we had one of those days in Resolute, where we lurched from one
large meal to another, with cookies and cakes in between. We did get a car and
had a bit of a drive around the one road that runs between the base and the
town. The town, like many in the Arctic, is a pretty grim place, lots of
rubbish blowing everywhere and septic tanks emptying into the adjacent river.
We also visited a 600 year-old Thule (the first Inuit settlers in this part of
the world) settlement, must have been a very hard existence up here… cannot
imagine why they abandoned. After some protracted negotiations, we have managed
to get to fly tomorrow (weather permitting). So we are planning to head up to
Devon Island again to Cape Vera and Hell’s Gate. There is a Polynya up there
which means open water and hopefully some families. Kerry, Graham and Alyn
leave at 5am and so we said our goodbyes before bed.
7th August
The wind got up overnight and so all plans to fly to Devon
are up the spout. After a look at the map we decide that it might be worth
heading round Cornwallis (as Glenn does not want us to travel any further). At
10am we get the nod and so we take a big punt on there being geese on some of
the river mouths to north and east of the island. East Cornwallis is a desolate
place, we fly for over 30 minutes across the centre of the island and do not
see a single living thing. Again we do come across some Brent, but all are
fliers. The wind is getting stronger and stronger and we head for home as the
fuel gauge hits 100lbs (about half an hours flying time). So a lot of flying
and travelling by yours truly for very little scientific reward.
However we have had a
fantastic season and got more done than I dared hope: found
new breeding areas, close to 30 individuals resighted, 24 nests found, 120 adults ringed and
sampled, 60 chicks ringed and sampled, diet samples collected from all over and flown several 1000miles of coastline. I am very proud of Tom, Ian and Chantelle
in particular for all their hard work and dedication spending the entire summer
at 80 degrees north, under arduous, but spectacularly beautiful (well most of
the time) conditions. Big big thanks also to Sean and Freydis for the middle
stint and warding off polar bears and the same goes to Alyn, Kerry and Graham
for the last few weeks. We will do it again…possibly not next year, but 2016 is
on the cards….. and of course it will be autumn before we know it so keep watching!!Late season team at Resolute base. L to R: Chantelle, Stu, Alyn, Tom, Ian, Graham and Kerry |
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